banner



How To Make A Blasting Cap

 Pages:i2iiiiv
Author: Subject: Your favorite diggings cap blueprint
Tkuze

Hazard to Others
* * *


Posts: 108
Registered: 8-v-2019
Member Is Offline


Your favorite blasting cap design
Hey guys, i jusy wanted to survey what materials and how you lot make your favorite reliable blasting caps. Currently, .223 shells have the cervix removed with a pipage cutter and the opening is widened and sanded to brand a perfect cylinder with i open finish. These are used and filled with whatever suitable secondary(1g) pressed. A chopstick is used to makd a slight hole in the center of the pressed fabric. This is covered with an improvised aluminim cup to make no contact primaried with brass. 90mg dex-LA is added and carefully pressed, followed by 200mg orangish/cherry-red Pb Styphnate. Gently, the shape end of a chopstick is used to create a small pigsty in the center of the pressed primaries. A OOO stopper with a single pigsty is cut to the correct size to printing down on the primaryand be affluent woth the top of the shell. The fuse is inzerted so information technology exits the bottom of the stopper and make contact with the primaries via the hole/pocket-size open spacecreated past the chopshick. Afterwards the shell is sealed tightly and fuse in contact with primary, the fuse is threated through a 9mm shell with priming cup removed and hole drilled out to accept the 2mm or 3 mm. The 9mm is slightly wider than the diameter of the .223 crush and is slowly pressed over the .223 shel until sealed. Hot glue is introduced onto the 9mm peak crush at the expanse where the fuse is protruding and works well to keep it waterproof. What do yous guys prefer? What household things can be used to make a stronger aluminim cup to concord primaries instead of making Al foil cups?
snooby

Adventure to Self
* *


Posts: 88
Registered: 24-5-2013
Member Is Offline

Mood: No Mood


For an based explosives, like ANNM, never had problems with just plastic blast caps... 300 mg Petn is just powerfull like hell, combined with some good primary explosive. Never liked metal blast caps, dont think its really neccecery also... it just looks amend.

I similar to use a fuse thats dipped in kclo4/ti/dextrine slurry.. use good quality fuse. Never use low quality primarys... go for:

BNCP
LA
NiGP
Double salts of silveracetylide
Dont use peroxides
Use of leadstyphnate, dont know why since LA alone just works fine.

[Edited on 10-5-2019 past snooby]

Tkuze

Gamble to Others
* * *


Posts: 108
Registered: eight-five-2019
Fellow member Is Offline


Thanks. Minor plastic centrifuge vials work well
XeonTheMGPony

International Hazard
* * * * *


Posts: 1620
Registered: five-ane-2016
Member Is Offline

Mood: No Mood


I use a chromed brass tubes with .five mm wall thickness, 7mm od, six.5mm ID by 50mm long, sadly open up at both ends

Base charge for these is 1gram pressed ETN, this is then capped by a paper shell made to tightly fit in the tube with the core beingness charged with 150 to 200mg of PVA-Pb Azide eighty% and atomic number 82 styphnate 20% (these are compounded as a powder and mixed thoroughly while dampened with a h2o alcohol mixture, in one case thoroughly mixed it is dried, and agitated to form a complimentary flowing dry pulverization)

This is then pressed into the tube on top of the base accuse, this assembly is and so dusted with some gratis flowing lead styphnate at which point an ematch is inserted with a tissue newspaper gasket, the remaining volume of the assembly is so sealed with epoxy or wood glue saturated tissue paper.

These are so gear up to dry for a few days. I use these when there must exist naught doubt as to initiation, for more every day things I use the same matter but simply a smaller tube 6mm OD by v.5mm ID and base of operations charge of 0.5g of ETN pressed, azide pellet is same as in a higher place.

Since the azide is fully encased past paper in that location is no take chances or worry about information technology reacting with the copper in the brass.

[Edited on 11-5-2019 by XeonTheMGPony]

Tkuze

Hazard to Others
* * *


Posts: 108
Registered: 8-five-2019
Member Is Offline


Thanks for the excellent reply! Thats a really good system. Information technology makes sense that we both take basically settled on the same compounds. Have yous tried sealing the ends with anythimg besides paper and epoxy, because im assuming your electric current method is the all-time one possible? What type of paper is used and practice you press form it using a mandril/ other process or just apply a rod to insert and shape it into the shell? Thats an intricate mixing process as well. How do you safely peletize it? Too, how do you make your ematches and how do you configure it to brand contact with priming compound? Sorry for all the questions but i observe your method genius. Accept y'all ever been able to notice aluminum shells with one cease sealed that's inexpensive and commercially available? I was thinking of aluminum .223 shells if they fifty-fifty exist. Or blanket contumely shells in an epoxy or plastic so its inert. Also, it would exist really prissy to find the higher up described premade aluminum shells and use your method of peletizing to brand a modular unit so you can load the principal pelet onto the base and insert ignition system modularly and crimp when needed just like commercial and armed forces #eight caps.
Whatsoever advice on how to brand nice solid master pelets in a sparse/inert casing that yous tin can proceed independantly until set up? Likewise how is your PVA method done? Aforementioned procedure as manufacture where 2 solutions combined dropwise with a basic solution at 60 C?
XeonTheMGPony

International Hazard
* * * * *


Posts: 1620
Registered: v-1-2016
Member Is Offline

Mood: No Mood


http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=149681

http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=146585

those threads have details.

That is how I do it, all industry standard methods.

[Edited on xi-5-2019 by XeonTheMGPony]

Rocinante

Hazard to Others
* * *


Posts: 121
Registered: 13-xi-2017
Member Is Offline

Mood: No Mood


Inner tube 15 cm long, inner diamater seven mm with 0.5 mm thick aluminium walls and a solid, round end filled with 350 mg of - yes, very lightly pressed :P SA.DS. The tube contains e-match and the rest is filled with mineral wool, sealed with epoxy. The outer tube is 15 mm inner diamater, filled with about 800 mg of ETN pressed to nearly 0.9 1000/cm3 and the top layer consists of 400 mg of relatively loose powder, so that the inner tube is in prissy contact. Te outer tube is made out of solid, clear plastic virtually 2 mm thick. The rest is filled with mineral wool, sealed. The upper end has a very well attached string so that it tin exist pulled out from a distance in example of misfire (powdery explosives like ammonal). Also, yous might want to coil the excess leads around the upper function of your diggings cap - this is done and then that you won't dirrectly pull on the e-match head inside the cap if you lot fall over and pull the leads away and the glue/epoxy fails.

This has the advantage that the lower function is well removed from your fingers and then that yous have low or no risk of accidental amputation and it (besides) means that the cap is well burried in a blast mittigation device then that any adventitious explosion during assembly is completely absorbed.
Again, I run across no reason to brand the blasting caps that curt. The actress few g of aluminium glitter in a big charge pose no additional fragmentation threat.
This is not the best pattern (SA.DS is non that stable but information technology will last for months if well removed from other chemicals - except the match caput). However, it is a feasible one. Fifty-fifty pure lead azide is non that stable when exposed to atmosphere and when in contact with copper leads (months - years)..

[Edited on 11-5-2019 by Rocinante]

[Edited on xi-5-2019 by Rocinante]

[Edited on eleven-5-2019 by Rocinante]

imp

Harmless
*


Posts: 1
Registered: 11-v-2019
Member Is Offline


.22 Win Mag empties are perfect, approximating very closely the physical dimensions of commercial fuse-type caps.

A water slurry of the chosen fill up fabric, very little excess water, picked upwards via an eyedropper, the cartridge filled almost full, a plastic ram positioned in the bench vise with the case horizontal, compresses the material downwardly to approximately the volume constitute commercially in a #six cap, applying xx lb-ft to the vise screw, yields ~ 3000 psi.

Let her dry out, and so let her rip! Dropped into the heavy steel drum of my cement mixer, shrapnel pierced tiny holes through the wall!

MineMan

International Risk
* * * * *


Posts: 892
Registered: 29-3-2015
Fellow member Is Offline

Mood: No Mood


Quote: Originally posted by imp
.22 Win Mag empties are perfect, approximating very closely the concrete dimensions of commercial fuse-blazon caps.

A water slurry of the called make full material, very little excess water, picked up via an eyedropper, the cartridge filled almost total, a plastic ram positioned in the bench vise with the example horizontal, compresses the material downwardly to approximately the volume found commercially in a #half-dozen cap, applying 20 lb-ft to the vise screw, yields ~ 3000 psi.

Permit her dry, then let her rip! Dropped into the heavy steel drum of my cement mixer, shrapnel pierced tiny holes through the wall!

Really. Shrapnel from a 22mag piercing asteel drum!! What do you fill up them with?

Tsjerk

International Hazard
* * * * *


Posts: 2890
Registered: 20-4-2005
Location: Netherlands
Member Is Offline

Mood: Mood


Quote: Originally posted by MineMan
Quote: Originally posted past imp
.22 Win Mag empties are perfect, approximating very closely the physical dimensions of commercial fuse-type caps.

A water slurry of the chosen fill fabric, very piddling backlog water, picked up via an eyedropper, the cartridge filled almost full, a plastic ram positioned in the bench vise with the case horizontal, compresses the material down to approximately the volume found commercially in a #6 cap, applying twenty lb-ft to the vise screw, yields ~ 3000 psi.

Let her dry, then let her rip! Dropped into the heavy steel drum of my cement mixer, shrapnel pierced tiny holes through the wall!

Really. Shrapnel from a 22mag piercing asteel drum!! What do you make full them with?

Another question is; why would you want a blasting cap to produce shrapnel in the first identify? I always used drinking straws filled with lightly pressed PETN. i gram sets off about anything too ANFO.

XeonTheMGPony

International Adventure
* * * * *


Posts: 1620
Registered: 5-1-2016
Member Is Offline

Mood: No Mood


Metal tubes help to focus the blast moving ridge and meliorate power and performance.

There is a reason for information technology, shrapnel is an annoying by production. FYI Most Properly made ANFO is non cap sensitive, why information technology is used then heavily in industrial mining.

Average is a i pound Pentolite booster (PETN / TNT) or 20 to 30% Nitroglycerin Dynamite.

I've had very good success using 5grams ETN with a bit of Ammonium nitrate mixed in w/ Aluminium as the booster

Rocinante

Hazard to Others
* * *


Posts: 121
Registered: 13-xi-2017
Member Is Offline

Mood: No Mood


Metal doesn't bend as easily so it protects the contens of the blasting cap, esp. the principal.

Notwithstanding, the is just a small difference between let's say 0.five mm of aluminium and ii mm of hard plastic as far as the impulse transfered to the master charge. The metal one has the PETN/ETN closer to the explosive but it takes more energy to burst the casing than the plastic one. Both are non brittle failures - they aggrandize similar a baloon and and so they pop.
Where metallic shines is when you want to press the secondary to high densities, plastic volition not allow you lot to do that.

I'd recommend 0.3 or 0.2 mm Al tubes because these kind of fragments volition decelerate to acceptable velocities within 25 m or so, the problem is that they are non that easily avaliable in the required inner diamaters with nice, closed, round bottoms - no seals for the explosive to go into (friction).

I supposed that the 22mag penetrated the wall with its lesser - the metallic is rather thick in that reqion. Shell casing aren't ideal - dense, pliable metal and thick parts give dangerous fragments.

XeonTheMGPony

International Hazard
* * * * *


Posts: 1620
Registered: five-1-2016
Member Is Offline

Mood: No Mood


go to the hobby store you can go nice aluminium tubing that is 6mm od past v.5mm id, but take to seal the finish some way for the secondary side, I utilise a bit of painters tape during pressing and it stays on pretty good unremarkably
twelti

Run a risk to Others
* * *


Posts: 217
Registered: 20-2-2019
Fellow member Is Offline


What most something similar this:
https://dragonplate.com/carbon-fiber-roll-wrapped-twill-tube...
Herr Haber

International Hazard
* * * * *


Posts: 1144
Registered: 29-one-2016
Fellow member Is Offline

Mood: No Mood


So your assembly is 15cm long and ane,5 com wide...
One tin only wonder how large your main charge is :o
Or how you exam a new EM.

If y'all really insist on several tubes:
Get a 6x4 mm tube and a 6x8mm
Get a 6mm bar.

Cut the bar in small discs: they will be your end plugs for the 8mm (outer) tube.
Cut your 8mm tube to desired length. 5 cm to seven,five should be perfect. Place a disc at the entrance of 1 of these tubes and then strike with hammer. Yous may need to heat to outer tube to place the disc inside. No glue or epoxy should be needed. Maybe a file.
Now fill that tube with the amount of secondary needed. Printing or melt.

Cut your 6mm tube to the same length equally your 8mm tube. It will beetle from the 8mm tube since you now have your secondary in it.
Find thick Al foil / utilize Aluminium from Al trays you usually get at take aways. Mucilage / metal epoxy this foil to 1 end of your tube, trim with scizors. Fill up with chief / close as usual.
You may now insert the inner tube inside the outer tube or proceed it dismounted until needed.
Since yous can cut and load your outer tube to your eye'south content it tin can be a detonator or a booster.

Quote: Originally posted by XeonTheMGPony
become to the hobby store you can get prissy aluminium tubing that is 6mm od past five.5mm id, just have to seal the cease some style for the secondary side,

Become a bar of the same diameter and cutting 2-iii mm discs. Y'all can now also use a piece as a dowel to press your EM.
You might need the discs in place with a hammer or mucilage them with epoxy if precision isnt good.

Tkuze

Run a risk to Others
* * *


Posts: 108
Registered: 8-5-2019
Member Is Offline


These are all really peachy designs. Ill keep y'all guys updated on new designs. Continue to share yours. Id beloved to see pics.
wessonsmith

Take chances to Others
* * *


Posts: 203
Registered: fifteen-2-2018
Location: elsewhere
Fellow member Is Offline


Powerful, Safe, Reliable, Green detonators!
And then I guess I will weigh in here on how to make very SAFE and reliable and very POWERFUL #8 detonators. First, for all of y'all using Lead Azide, Styphnate, blah apathetic blah, STOP! Stop with the very sensitive primaries, PLEASE. If you are using HMTD, TATP then I guess you are looking for your Darwin accolade.

So there are two methods I use to produce very powerful detonators, one being a flake more challenging than the other. The first is the 300mg Nickel Hydrazine Nitrate (NHN), 200mg powdered ETN, 700mg Melt-cast ETN road. This is the easiest of the two to produce. Whatever tube, plastic(utilize 500mg NHN), steel, aluminum, copper, etc. tin can exist used with every bit great results. The just drawback with this method is that you have a temperature limit of 58°C(136°F) in which the detonator tin operate. This temperature limit, nonetheless, isn't an consequence for 99% of those playing with energetics, and so that would be the one I would suggest.

For those of you who are interested in more exotic materials then you accept the NHN / Sodium Nitrotetrazole(NaNTz) route. This is sexier considering you are using a tetrazole and the upper-temperature limit in which the detonator tin exist used is raised to 180°C. What I honey well-nigh this method is Prophylactic. If you do your research on NHN you will see that NHN is 80x less sensitive to friction than Lead Azide but when you mix NHN with NaNTz (eighty/20) you get a VERY insensitive mixture. NaNTz(Dihydrate) is so insensitive that you can't set it off with hammer blows, endeavor that with Lead Azide. The process for making the detonator is very simple. Intimately mix the NHN and NaNTz powder together by placing in a plastic container and shaking vigorously. I similar to button the mixture through a plastic strainer a few times to really ensure a thorough mix. Press mixture into a detonator tube and place into a 107°C(225°F) oven for four hrs to drive off the 'water of crystallization' of the NaNTz and then you are left with a prepare to go Anhydrous NaNTz / NHN mixture. Place 50mg of NHN on elevation of that to assist the Visco fuse or electric match caput to set it off.

A quick notation on Tetrazoles. DBX-1, Silvery Nitrotetrazole, etc. are almost equally sensitive to friction as Pb Azide is, then in my book, that's only too sensitive.

The dazzler of the in a higher place designs is that the can sit on a shelf for a decade or more. None of the energetics used is reactive to aluminum, steel, copper, plastic, etc. They are "Green Primaries" and both tin be made from access to eBay and Amazon. I take put a few links to some videos below.

NHN industry:
https://youtu.be/rPxdDSUGxo4

NHN/NaNTz very unproblematic detonator (plastic)
https://youtu.exist/qbfaFi6g1ew

Power comparison between NHN solitary and then mixed with NaNTz
https://youtu.be/1wvZ5sFZqVA

Video simply for fun. Firecracker mix i.25g (NHN/ETN) rut treated.
https://youtu.be/vibSy1i8YC4

Industry of 5-ATz
https://youtu.be/5s2yq3_yWjM

2017 Patent procedure for making NaNTz.
https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/01/67/21/181df61...

Flawed Soul

Harmless
*


Posts: seven
Registered: 18-3-2019
Fellow member Is Offline


I utilise quondam aluminum arrows, cut to length and crimp i end in the vise. They piece of work well. The end that the nock attaches to is already sealed, that part makes great cap.
hissingnoise

International Hazard
* * * * *


Posts: 3940
Registered: 26-12-2002
Member Is Offline

Mood: Pulverulescent!



I used to use aluminium (10mm?) freezer tubing, just crimped shut with pliers...

In one case with RDX base of operations with HMTD topping ─ the slice of builder's plank it sat on was chewed up, divide in two, and I however found my original three inch piece of Al tubing ─ though it was now in the form of a very frail, fine glittery 'lace fabric' of probably a couple of feet or more in area...

I'll havta become myself more agile again, one of these days.

caterpillar

National Adventure
* * * *


Posts: 472
Registered: eight-1-2012
Fellow member Is Offline

Mood: No Mood


I formed a tube, wrapping aluminum tinfoil around a pencil. 0.5-0.8 gr of TATP within. Cotton rope, boiled in a solution of KNO3. Then this rope was dried and put into liquid sulfur. Then wrapped with adhesive plaster. Pushed into that aluminum tube and fixed with the same plaster. Burned slowly and stable. Powerful enough to initiate a mix of AN+ ammonium picrate.

Women are more perilous sometimes, than any hi explosive.

wessonsmith

Hazard to Others
* * *


Posts: 203
Registered: xv-2-2018
Location: elsewhere
Fellow member Is Offline


Quote: Originally posted past caterpillar
I formed a tube, wrapping aluminum tinfoil around a pencil. 0.5-0.8 gr of TATP inside. Cotton rope, boiled in a solution of KNO3. Then this rope was dried and put into liquid sulfur. Then wrapped with adhesive plaster. Pushed into that aluminum tube and fixed with the same plaster. Burned slowly and stable. Powerful enough to initiate a mix of AN+ ammonium picrate.

You lost me at TATP. When anyone says they are using TATP, HMTD, Lead Azide. etc I say you haven't spent enough time to acquire how to make safer more powerful primaries. I am non trying to be rude but just straight to the signal. Yes, it is VERY easy to make TATP and HMTD but information technology's just as easy to seriously injure yourself.

I got into energetics nearly 3.v years agone and from the very showtime, I wanted to observe a improve fashion than HMTD and TATP. I did the research on those primaries and saw the potential for trouble. Non to mention the reactivity of those primaries.

Nickel Hydrazine Nitrate (NHN) is an incredibly stable, rubber and very powerful primary.

XeonTheMGPony

International Hazard
* * * * *


Posts: 1620
Registered: v-1-2016
Member Is Offline

Mood: No Mood


Quote: Originally posted past wessonsmith
Quote: Originally posted by caterpillar
I formed a tube, wrapping aluminum tinfoil effectually a pencil. 0.v-0.8 gr of TATP inside. Cotton rope, boiled in a solution of KNO3. Then this rope was dried and put into liquid sulfur. And so wrapped with adhesive plaster. Pushed into that aluminum tube and fixed with the same plaster. Burned slowly and stable. Powerful enough to initiate a mix of AN+ ammonium picrate.

You lost me at TATP. When anyone says they are using TATP, HMTD, Lead Azide. etc I say you haven't spent enough time to learn how to make safer more powerful primaries. I am not trying to exist rude but but straight to the betoken. Yes, information technology is VERY like shooting fish in a barrel to make TATP and HMTD merely it's just as easy to seriously injure yourself.

I got into energetics about 3.5 years ago and from the very offset, I wanted to notice a better way than HMTD and TATP. I did the inquiry on those primaries and saw the potential for trouble. Non to mention the reactivity of those primaries.

Nickel Hydrazine Nitrate (NHN) is an incredibly stable, safety and very powerful primary.

LMAO Ya the industrial war machine complex hasn't don enough research, the Mining industry hasn't, you take the ane true truth!

y'all lost all credibility a while back in my eye's and so not like y'all could lose any more.

You do realize the toxic properties of high concentration of Nickle?

And then ya, unproblematic facts, there are reasons they are still Using Azide, that superseded Fulminate, and Terazoles are slowly working to replace Azide for green reasons.

Tsjerk

International Take chances
* * * * *


Posts: 2890
Registered: xx-four-2005
Location: Netherlands
Member Is Offline

Mood: Mood


What is wrong with dextrinated pb azide? Yous only need a grain to set of PETN, of which y'all only need half a gram to set of ANNM
caterpillar

National Hazard
* * * *


Posts: 472
Registered: 8-1-2012
Member Is Offline

Mood: No Mood


The White Devil (TATP) is dangerous, yeah, only mercury fulminate too. The rules are simple- use pure chems, HCl every bit goad (not H2SO4), make few grams. I fabricated more than unsafe things with TATP- well, if you lot say that I was wrong mixing x grams of TATP with AN, I'll agree. But the minor amount in a blusting cup tin only throw one-two fingers away. No big bargain. There is double salt- Ag2C2*AgNO3. Use information technology if you want- but do not forget to add a few percents of graphite. It is static sensitive.

Women are more perilous sometimes, than whatever hello explosive.

MineMan

International Hazard
* * * * *


Posts: 892
Registered: 29-iii-2015
Fellow member Is Offline

Mood: No Mood


Quote: Originally posted by XeonTheMGPony
Quote: Originally posted by wessonsmith
Quote: Originally posted by caterpillar
I formed a tube, wrapping aluminum tinfoil around a pencil. 0.5-0.8 gr of TATP inside. Cotton rope, boiled in a solution of KNO3. So this rope was dried and put into liquid sulfur. Then wrapped with agglutinative plaster. Pushed into that aluminum tube and fixed with the same plaster. Burned slowly and stable. Powerful enough to initiate a mix of AN+ ammonium picrate.

You lot lost me at TATP. When anyone says they are using TATP, HMTD, Lead Azide. etc I say yous oasis't spent enough time to learn how to make safer more powerful primaries. I am not trying to be rude but simply straight to the point. Yes, it is VERY easy to make TATP and HMTD but information technology'due south merely as easy to seriously hurt yourself.

I got into energetics virtually 3.5 years ago and from the very start, I wanted to notice a ameliorate fashion than HMTD and TATP. I did the research on those primaries and saw the potential for trouble. Not to mention the reactivity of those primaries.

Nickel Hydrazine Nitrate (NHN) is an incredibly stable, safe and very powerful primary.

LMAO Ya the industrial military circuitous hasn't don enough enquiry, the Mining manufacture hasn't, y'all have the one true truth!

y'all lost all credibility a while back in my eye'south then non like you could lose any more.

You lot practice realize the toxic properties of high concentration of Nickle?

And so ya, simple facts, there are reasons they are still Using Azide, that superseded Fulminate, and Terazoles are slowly working to replace Azide for green reasons.

Really Xeon. I tin can speak to this...

The mining industry and military does do a lot of enquiry but they are too afraid of modify (mining) or two irksome to implement (armed forces). For mining it's pure economics, orica makes thier caps in Mexico and they have tons of LA, and so they go along using it, they don't want to have to change thier factory unless they need too.. The amateur volition ever have an adavatage in a sense. The mining manufacture needs to exist pushed a lot, they don't similar modify. Peculiarly the blasting manufacture. Information technology'southward embarrassing.

In the armed forces HNS is all the same considered an experimental explosive.. and nosotros have had that forever.

I appreciate Wesson'due south contributions.

 Pages:12iii4

Source: http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=149919

0 Response to "How To Make A Blasting Cap"

Post a Comment

Iklan Atas Artikel

Iklan Tengah Artikel 1

Iklan Tengah Artikel 2

Iklan Bawah Artikel